Cuzco: the naval of the world.

"But it's only a ten hour bus ride." That is all I needed to hear to be convinced to take a week and a half off of working to go see the famous city of Cuzco and its plethora of Inca ruins. I packed my backpack and we were off! 

Ernesto "Che" Guevara said Machu Picchu is a "place that drives any dreamer to ecstasy."

 

I am currently reading an anthology about Peru's history and I have loved learning about the places that I am visiting. I recently read an excerpt from the journals of Hiram Bingham, the first white man to "discover" Machu Picchu. He said this, "The elusive beauty of this chaste, undecorated surface seems to be due to the fact that the wall was built under the eye of a master mason who knew not the straight edge, the plumb rule, or the square. He had no instruments of precision, so he had to depend on his eye. He had a good eye an artistic eye, an eye for symmetry and beauty of form." 

 

It was great to meet up with some friends from BYU and travel for a few days as a group. We stayed in some funky little hostels, ate great food and enjoyed many laughs. Here is our favorite place we stayed: Super Tramp Hostel. (yes, that is the real name)

 

 

After Machu Picchu, our friends moved on to other cities and Conner and I decided to backpack our way through the Andes to get to the Inca ruins of Choquequirao. A 5 hour bus ride(it only broke down once) and a 1 hour taxi drive(7 passengers in a falling apart station wagon) got us to the trail head. We were so excited to get into the mountains and forget about civilization for a few days.  

 

 

 

To get to the ruins you have to hike 20 km down the canyon wall to the river bed at the bottom, then hike up the other side another 12 km. It was really difficult, but the views were incredible and we made many friends at the camp grounds from all over the world.  

Once you get to the river there is only one way to cross: hop into a little cage and pull yourself accross the river on a cable. It was so fun. We did it plenty of times just for fun, but the first time held its novelty.  

We spent the night next to the river and then woke up early the next morning to head up the other side of the canyon. The trail is straight uphill so we frequently rested in the many stream beds that we crossed. 

When we finally made it up to the ruins we were exhausted. We couldn't bear to walk any further so we we had a good long rest enjoying the beautiful ruins and the amazing views.

 

Besides the archaeological excavation team, we were the only people there! It was awesome!

We spent the night near the ruins. Can't complain about the campsite. 

Hiking out of the canyon the next day seemed unbearable in the heat of the day, so we decided to hike back down to the river in the morning, spend the afternoon at the river and hike up the canyon that evening. It was one of the most incredible experiences. The full moon lit our path. We didn't even use our headlamps. By the time we had reached the top of the canyon wall we were standing in a cloud. So tired, but so satisfied we snapped this pic at the peak of the mountain.

 

There was no campground so we asked the sweet owner of this home to let us camp next her house and she put us right on the porch protected from the wind. She was very sweet to us. 

 

All in all, the 60 kilometers were hard and painful, but totally worth it.

On the ride home I found myself sitting next to a woman roped in the most beautiful colors. Her skin was wrinkled and sun worn. Her toothless smile made me happy. I went to speak to her only to find that she did not speak Spanish. She only spoke the native language of Quechua. Suddenly there was such a difference between us. I felt that she was so different now that I couldn't communicate with her. She was so foreign. But couldn't help but see the small space between us on the car seat. We were close physically, but culturally we were divided by an enormous gap. 

 

I was blessed to have a thought brought to my mind at that moment: "Heavenly Father is no respecter of persons." He doesn't see our clothes or the language we speak. He doesn't care that she harvests potatoes for a living and that I'm a spoiled college student. He sees the heart. Maybe there was a large cultural gap between us, but in that moment I felt closer spiritually to that woman than any other human on the planet.  

 

 

  

Caras vemos pero corazones no conocemos...

I watch the hazy cityscape transform as the twilight sky went from sunset to dusk. The street lamps flicker on in a wave across the sea of rooftops. In an odd contradiction to the beautiful sight, I feel like throwing up. We have been in the car all day driving up and down the city streets locating the areas where surveys would be conducted. The pot-holes, curves and stop-and-go motion has taken me to a place physically that I do not enjoy. I pace on the sidewalk trying to distract my mind from the nausea with the view, but the sensation persists. I look for a nearby local to find a bathroom and see a small restaurant on the street corner. The young hostess directs me to the bathroom where I find the usual: one toilet(no toilet-seat). I return to the senorita to ask for toilet paper. In response I receive a small stack of 6-8 napkins. I sought a restroom to find a better physical state, but I left that restaurant more sick to my stomach than when I left it.

We have left the cement confines of the city to do field work in other provinces. We headed to the coast where we worked and played. The water was rather cold, but we swam in the waves nonetheless. Seeing the climate change so dramatically was incredible. In Arequipa we are at an altitude of  8,000 ft. Dropping to sea-level was amazing geographically, architecturally and culturally. 

   

On Wednesday of this week we conducted interviews in a district that contains the oldest cemetery in Arequipa. El Apacheta was opened in 1833 and has served as the burial place for many of the important historical figures in Arequipa. The design and tradition of the cemetery is completely foreign. Different sections of the cemetery are designated for different economic classes. 

The lower class bury their dead in a ground level grave with a gravestone.

The middle class have specially designed casket spaces (up to eight high) built throughout the grounds.

The upper class have small tombs that go deep into the ground with shelves built for each family members resting place.

I thought about my perception of death and how to honor those in my family that have passed. We owe so much respect to those that have come before us and I was touched to see dedication and commitment that the Latin culture shows to their dead. Happy Memorial Day! 

I am growing closer to the city. We have covered nearly the entire city from end to end and I am beginning to feel like I am apart of the chaos. Every street has character and a story to tell. I am constantly poking my head through doors, peering around corners and simply stopping to have a chat with the people that I see. I've had some great conversations with strangers answering questions like "What is that game you play with a brown lopsided ball?"(Football) and "Isn't it true that the majority of Americans are obese?" I love answering these questions, stepping outside of my ethnocentric perspective and realizing the distinctiveness of my culture. 

Meaningful conversation has also been made with those I work alongside. The name of this post is a phrase that my friend, Jaime, taught me: "Faces we see, but hearts we don't know". This phrase has helped me maintain an open perspective as I have engaged with the Peruvian people. Every time I choose to judge a person instead of get to know them, I have chosen to waste time in a meaningless action. The detrimental impact of unrighteous judgement inhibits us from enjoying the blessings of human interaction. On a daily basis, I have to choose to open my eyes and engage with all my surroundings from a sincere and genuine place. 

 My beautiful fiance recently helped me understand that the only valuable attainment in this life is that which you can keep in your heart and mind. Nothing of material value can ever replace knowledge, passion, love and understanding. I am trying to let my eyes, ears, nose, mind and heart be my resource for souvenirs rather than my wallet. 

Some of our awesome interviewers

I value the people around me so much. I find that mentors, family and friends are the greatest source of strength and growth in this life. And even though I have been surrounded by amazing people my whole life, there is no person I would rather have by my side than my Andi. We value each other. We value life. We value the love we have been blessed with. 

Life is pressing forward in a way that I have never felt it move before. I am learning so much about myself as I spend time here with new friends and acquaintances, learning from them, their culture and their experiences. Oddly enough, Andrea and I have been grateful for the lessons that our limited communication has taught us. We have to set apart and treasure the time we have to talk and share with one another. We are learning the importance of genuine communication. Who thought we would ever be grateful for 3 months of separation? It is hard to be surrounded by so many beautiful people, places and experiences without being able to share them with the person you love most. We have to keep telling ourselves that we are going through the last bit of preparation before we begin our life together. She keeps me hopeful for a better tomorrow and assures me of the potential that lies ahead. If you can't tell, I'm missing her terribly...

      

Wanderlust: n.noun. A very strong or irresistible impulse to travel.

"A desayunar todos!!" yells Jackie from downstairs. Her summoning to the breakfast table wakes me up every morning. I climb out of bed, down the cold ceramic stairs and sit myself down at the table. Jackie always greets me with a big laugh. She is a happy person. Always laughing. Always smiling. She never lets anything get the best of her. She is a great mother and I am blessed to watch her motherly and culinary expertise. 

We have finished training our interviewers and now we are heading out full force to each of the districts of the city to conduct survey interviews with the people of Arequipa. We have randomly selected neighborhoods across the entire city, which is cool for us because we get to see different parts of the entire city. 

We are working with some really great university students and they are already our good friends. We are happy to have such hard-working people on our team and we are very proud of the work they have done. 

Arequipa is a colonial city. When it was first founded it was a community based on the very prominent convent that was at its city center, Santa Catalina. 

Santa Catalina is called the mini-city because it is literally a tiny community with buildings, courtyards, and streets within the confines of a large surrounding wall. 

I need to correct myself about calling Arequipa "the white city" because of the white lava rock. It is called that now because of the many buildings built with "sillar", white volcanic stone, but it was originally called the white city because of the many Europeans/whites that inhabited the city. These Europeans were mainly brought to this place because of the holy convent that supported 12 nuns within the convent. 

There are now around 15 nuns within the convent, but the lifestyle of the convent is very similar to the original set up. These nuns go through an eight year initiation process and when they finally enter into the convent it is for life. They never leave the convent and never communicate with outsiders. Most of Santa Catalina has been opened up for tourist access, but a small section still pertains to the current nuns that reside in the small community. Back in the 1500s when Santa Catalina was founded, it was an honor and privilege for wealthy men to send their oldest daughter to be schooled and accepted into the convent. These young girls were wealthy youth sent off by their fathers sentenced to a life of prayer and worship. I applaud the women that dedicate themselves to such a life, but I feel that service to God needs to include His children. The most valuable growth towards consecration comes from interacting with God's children. I can't help but think myself selfish if I decided to stay inside, away from the world, reading my scriptures all my life. The gospel requires active service in benefit of others. This life is about supporting each other, not just increasing our own personal knowledge and purity.    

Tim Heaton, the director of the PEAT program, came down to visit last week. It was great to have some help on a couple of things as we get the project running. He was invited to speak at a local university and share some findings of his last project concerning women's health in developing countries. There was another local professor that was invited to speak and who ended up taking like 3/4 of the meeting, so Tim only spoke for about 10 minutes. We all laughed. Not to mention that the bulk of the other professor's address was about participating in reviving the Marxist movement. Let's just say that sociology is very different in South America.  

Then this happened...

Colca Canyon is the second deepest canyon in the world (the deepest in the world in also in the region of Arequipa...we are headed there next month). Twice as deep as the Grand Canyon, it is a spectacle to behold. It is also well known because it is the home of the large Condor. There are hundreds of large vultures that circle between the canyon walls in the early morning. Let's just say it threw me "heels over head"...(that one is for Andi, the punster of all punsters) But seriously, I am really glad that I have time to get back on top of my yoga practice. I was so incredibly busy last semester that it wasn't even a priority, but I'm happy to practicing daily once again. 

The local community is its own separate entity from the state and they live completely self-sufficient. Each member of the community is given a piece of land and they are asked to cultivate the land for the benefit of the entire community. It is quite amazing. 

     

The long bus ride and dusty roads reminded me too much of  Honduras. I was oddly content to ride for hours on an unkempt road with a mouth full of dirt. That sensation was too familiar. 

This place is becoming so close to my heart so fast. I am already nervous for the day when I have to leave this place. I told Conner the other day that I am concerned for myself, because I have started to scatter pieces of my heart all over the world. I am too eager to open my heart to different places, cultures and opportunities. It hurts to think about all the people I care for all over the world. I worry about them and pray for them, but it is painful to try maintain so much inside the tiny confines of my heart. But I realize that I would rather hurt with feeling than not feel that love at all.  

And...just so you know, I am still in love with this gal. 

 

Bienvenidos! Welcome to Arequipa, Peru!

After twenty-four hours of travel, the plane landed in the “white city” of Arequipa, Peru. It was all too familiar. The sights, the sounds, the smells, everything made me think of Honduras. It hurt a little to be so heavily reminded of that place that I came to love so dearly as a missionary, but that feeling was soon overcome with excitement and curiosity as I realized the overwhelming amount of new things that I would learn and experience during this Peruvian Summer. 

      

Julio Sumerinde is a Peruvian native. He is a business owner of a textile company called “Peru Sweet Home.” He has been working over the last year to run for regional president here in Arequipa. As part of his preparation for the campaign he has decided to have a group come in and prepare an assessment of community needs within the region. (Here is where I come in)

I was accepted as an intern for the Program Evaluation Assessment Team (PEAT) in the fall of 2013. We worked to prepare professionally as interns for different organizations across the world. We have team members in Utah, Cambodia, India, Uganda, Malawi, Ecuador and Peru. I was given a partner, Conner Blake, and assigned to the public opinion survey project here in Arequipa. Over the last six months we have worked to prepare project details, proposals, funding and approvals so we could enjoy this amazing experience working abroad. 

I couldn’t imagine a more exciting experience that is catered directly to me. As a double major in sociology/Spanish along with a minor in international development, I could imagine an opportunity that could apply all those things in one. To say the least, this will do great things for my studies and future career.      

The Sumerinde family has invited us into their home with such kindness and generosity. His wife, Jackie, is Ecuadorian along with their first three children who were born in Ecuador. Only their youngest was born in Peru. Eric(18) is on a mission in the north of Peru. Eva(15) is a sassy teenager. Juliana(13) is an even sassier teenager. And Angelina(6) is just a friend to everyone. They are a beautiful family. I have already learned so much from them.   

The city is crowded with people. Everywhere I look I see faces that tell a story. Strangers on the street intrigue me, because I see so much foreign experience in their eyes. People all around me have knowledge and experience that are completely unknown to me. I am anxious to get to know this culture and get closer to the reality that they live on a daily basis.

We have begun forming a research team of university students that will help us in distributing a survey through interviews across the entire region. We are really please so far with the dedication and the quality of work that these students are willing to do. We are getting to know the city and are trying to become comfortable with getting around in the city. 

Arequipa is surrounded by huge two huge mountain ranges, Pikchu Pikchu and Chachani. In between these two mountain ranges lies “El Misti” or “Wawa Putina”, an active volcano that last erupted in 1985. It is a miraculous thing that I can’t stop looking at. It just amazes me.     

It was a special treat to have Julio take us on our first cultural experience yesterday to a place called Yusina on the outskirts of the city where we could see historic steppes in the mountain side developed by the Inca civilization for irrigation. We had a traditional Peruvian lunch that knocked our socks off and saw some beautiful sights.  

The food here is delicious. Every morning we have hot chocolate, bread and fruit. It is very traditional to eat soup for lunch and then a large dinner in the evenings. Rice is served with every meal. It has amazed me how different the customs are here compared to central america. Beans basically don't exist and a tortilla here is what we would call an omelet. Because Jackie is Ecuadorian we also get to taste a lot of home-cooked Ecuadorian dishes. Yum!

We had everything from pickled pig's foot to fried guinea pig all in one lunch. Our stomachs are now Peruvian, or at least trying to be. It really threw me off when Julio grabbed the head of the guinea pig, ripped off the bottom jaw and then slurped the brain right out of the skull! Ahhh! It was something I had never witnessed. 

BEFORE

AFTER

After we had conquered the pig's hoof and guinea pig. Julio said we deserved a reward so he took us to a place where we went for a horseback ride and saw some beautiful parts of the country. It was a culturally colorful day. 

I am already in love with the food, the people and the culture. I only thing this place is missing is my beautiful fiance. I thank Heavenly Father everyday for technology, but being engaged over Facetime isn't that fun. But we try to make the best of it. Recently one of our favorite games is to catch each other making an attractive face then taking a screenshot...

I do not know what I have done to deserve this girl, but she is the best thing that has ever come into my life. There are no words to express the love that we share. 

She is everything I wish I could be and more. She is my greatest inspiration and always will be. She helps me maintain an eternal perspective and move forward confiding in Christ. Her presence teaches me daily that God knows us and wants us to gain eternal salvation as families. That knowledge and testimony is my most prized possession. 

I look around me and see the world that God has created for us, his children. It is amazing that he has not only provided this period of progression for us, but he has given us evidence here on earth that there is a greater plan at hand. With so much to take in, the world and this life can seem completely overwhelming, but God intends for us to make an effort to learn, understand and grow. All around us are people, places, thoughts, words and feelings that can teach us if we let them. We can see the light of Christ in all of God's creations if we let our hearts be vulnerable to that divine illumination.